OEM to N1 ECU Process

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OEM to N1 ECU Process

Postby Emmanuel Herrera » Tue Jun 27, 2023 00:36

Hey there guys!

I've had a long read on what the forum has to offer with regards to N1 ECU knowledge. From what I have gathered, the distributor doesn't get touched, but terminals C and D need to be shorted? I was trying to read the Suzuki Sport manual on Page 7 but I do admit I can't get much information out of it due to poor translation, as Google Translate can't see the letters properly.

I'm really not prepared to assume what has been done on other posts and piece it together to my understanding as there may be sequences that I've missed or done in the wrong order. If possible, I would like to know the absolute method on how to prepare the F6A to be able to be N1 ready.

It is a bit of a faff on your ends, but let's assume the situation is I have a bone stock Cappuccino and suddenly a N1 ECU appeared out of thin air. What kind of steps should I do to ensure that I have the proper use of the N1?

From what I have done so far, I have only adjusted the boost from 0.7 to 1.0 kg/cm² and everything is kept as standard. I haven't actually done any shorting yet as I am unsure on what terminals to short - I do know where the plug is though.

Hope I can get some help from somebody! Cheers!
Last edited by Emmanuel Herrera on Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:00, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: OEM to N1 ECU Process

Postby Ian Linden » Tue Jun 27, 2023 10:32

The NI ECU just plugs into the standard ECU socket, and you can drive the car. The N1 eliminates the fuel cut at about 1.13 bar, so you can raise the boost to about that level. The Suzuki Sport ECU Manual Page 2 specifies 1.1 kg/cm2 for the F6A engine wiith NI (Spec A). Bear in mind that a standard car with the wastegate spring in new condition (unlikely to be encountered now) controls the boost to 0.9 kg/cm2 at most.

The untranslated parts of the ECU Manual appear to refer to repeating the tests specified for the standard car in the Service Manual to set the idling mixture and timing (which should be unchanged with the N1, but may alter with the N2, which is perhaps why it appears in the ECU Manual?). I think you can safely disregard that, but by all means follow the procedures in the Service Manual if you wish. Perhaps the shorting you refer to is the temporary grounding wires, which are only used to perform the tests (see pages 6E-59 and 6E-60, and 6F-7 and 6F-8).

I hope that helps.
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Re: OEM to N1 ECU Process

Postby Emmanuel Herrera » Tue Jun 27, 2023 10:59

Ahh, that is what I thought. I was convinced it was pretty much plug and play, although serious doubts were planted when I went to a recent show and it was suggested that I've not done some processes/skipped some parts.l, which I thought only applied to the N2.

I have replaced the stock wastegate with a new aftermarket one too avoid any potential drawbacks as you mentioned, so fortunately I'm hoping it's holding the 1.0 boost that I've assigned to it. My boost gauge seems to report it fine.

Also, thank you for clarifying on the grounding of the wires. I guess I don't need to worry about much after all.

Thank you for the clarification on this Ian and for the quick reply!
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