What engine oil

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What engine oil

Postby Philip Lee » Thu May 23, 2002 10:24

Ok, I've searched the old board but can't find any information. I'd like to know what kind of engine oil people are using.
I know a good synthetic oil should be used, like Mobil, but what about viscosity?
Is 0W/40 too thin to use? Both Mobil 1 and Castrol RS comes in this flavour but I've heard that thin oils can cause some smoking because it gets through the seals which thicker oil won't.

Any other brands people recommend?

Cheers
Phil
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Engine Oil

Postby George Dunning » Thu May 23, 2002 10:42

I always use Mobil 1 0W/40 and my capp runs a dream, although the manual does recommend 10W/40, and I am sure will be just as good.

After 2 years there is no smoking from the exhaust, and I also put in fully synthetic Slick 50, when I first changed the oil and ,although some may say it was unnecessary with a fully synth oil, it has run beautifully smooth ever since - particularly in the winter months.

Just remember that it is good practice to change the oil every 6 months or 3000 miles to ensure good running and maintainance. :D

George
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Postby Thomas Waterhouse » Thu May 23, 2002 11:07

Personally I use the more common 5W-50 (?) Mobil 1, no point taking any risks or anything with the thinner oil, there's not going to be any real advantage AFAIK.
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Postby Ian Linden » Thu May 23, 2002 18:52

Motaquip (Peugeot) MQX 5W40 Fully Synthetic £19.50 for 5 litres (High St., Frimley). Car seems to like it.
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Postby Murray Betts » Thu May 23, 2002 20:46

You can search various sites for the detailed technical stuff about Lube Oils (try http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/ for a start, this chap knows what he is talking about :wink: ). The "W" number is the viscosity at
-18degC, and the other is at 100degC, so what is desirable is a low "W" number to get good cold start performance, and an appropriate hot number for the engine; Suzuki recommend a "30" hot end. I've done a lot of development testing of engine lube systems, and among other things the hydraulic lash adjusters in the valve gear work best with lower viscosities (better filling through the check valves). Unless you do regular cold starts below 0degC I wouldn't worry too much about the difference between 5W and 10W (or even 0W), they will all do OK, but you may as well go with a 30 hot end if available (having said that I'm currently using a 10W40 - doh!). The water/oil coolers (as on the Capp) usually work well, warming oil quickly and keeping it near coolant temp, minimising condensation, and the water cooled turbo bearing housing will minimise "coking". I doubt you're going far wrong. I'll be using a 30 at the next change.
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