Notchy gearbox

[Ian Linden]

I've been using Castrol semi-synth Syntrax Universal in my box, to address the notchy 2nd gear problem, and, as I reported, it cured the problem on all but the coldest mornings.

However, last year I spotted that Castrol had brought out a fully-synth gearbox oil called SMX-S, so I tried that.

After a year's use (the improvement was gradual) there is absolutely no trace of notchiness, ever.

Highly recommended for your Cappo, and well worth the extra cost.

[Lisa Balsom]

Thanks for the tip Ian.

Ours is a bit notchy going up through 2nd, and as engine and gearbox oil change is not too far away, we'll have to give that a go.

One question though, why do you think the improvement was gradual?

While on the subject of replacing liquids, has anyone tried Nesquik Magic Straws.
Really Good!

[Ian Linden]

One question though, why do you think the improvement was gradual?

I really can't offer an explanation, but I noticed little initial difference to the Syntrax, and it seemed a bit better after say 6 months. I really noticed the difference recently; the symptoms have completely vanished.

Perhaps it's like wine - improves with age

Anyway, fully-synth is supposed to have good long-life properties, so I'm going to keep this fill in the box for a second year (car's only done 1,200 miles in the first year).

[Murray Betts]

I'll file that away in the "must remember" box. Thanks Ian.

[Mark Dobson]

Ian,

Did you have much trouble in terms of access when changing the gearbox oil? I seem to remember a while ago someone was changing their gearbox and rear diff oil and mentioned the awkwardness of the job and how they discivered a few new swear words in the process.....

I bought some Millers TX semi-synthetic last year and have been put off replacing because of this

regards

[Ian Linden]

Hi Mark,

I think the greatest difficulty is working under the car. Even on axle stands, I found it too low and claustrophobic. OK for cavers, maybe

I confess I get a local garage to do it at annual MoT time. I just give them my oil and they do it on the lift. Being able to stand underneath, they have no problem.

I did try Millers semi-synthetic, but I found it not as good as Castrol Syntrax, and probably no better than mineral oil, as regards the crunch, so you may be disappointed with it. I know Dave Benson used to recommend Millers fully-synth, but I couldn't find any.

Now that Halfords stock Castrol SMX-S, I'm a happy bunny

[Lisa Balsom]

This thread may help,

http://www.suzuki-cappuccino.com/phpbb2 ... arden+hose

All we do is raise the front of the car and put the wheels on wooden blocks about 8 inches high.
This allows you room to slide under the car and undo and tighten the plugs.
The messy bit is performed from above and makes the job much easier.

For the diff, remove the rear bumper, which is really easy, and use the same method.

It can be unpleasant working with axle stands, but by using the blocks you are assured that the car is not going anywhere.

Hope this helps.

[Mark Dobson]

Many thanks Lisa and Ian

Will get some Castrol and hold the Millers for another project, maybe the trike's rear diff will enjoy it!!!

regards

Mark

[Martyn Collins]

This oil SMX-S sounds like the stuff to use.
How much do i need to buy?

[Adrian Furniss]

Martyn, see page 11-3 of the Owner's Manual.

[Tony Harris]

Can anyone confirm if it is SMS-X or SMX-S as castrol UK's website only lists SMX-S and so does Halfords, see;

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langId=-1

Castrol

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multiple ... Id=7027191

[Ian Linden]

Oops, sorry; it is, of course SMX-S

I will edit the posts above.

[Martyn Collins]

just replaced the oil with this smxs stuff and it did the trick no more nochty second.

[Ian Linden]

just replaced the oil with this smxs stuff and it did the trick no more nochty second.

Wow, instant success

[Dick Winchester]

So this new magic oil is OK for both gearbox and diff?

[Ian Linden]

So this new magic oil is OK for both gearbox and diff?

EDIT: No, as stated below by Murray, it is not GL5, so gearbox only.

Use Castrol Syntrax Universal in the diff.

[Murray Betts]

Resurrecting this thread!

Just been trawling the Castrol data sheets (for work) and thought I'd check the SMX-S and Syntrax

SMX-S
DESCRIPTION

Castrol SMX-S is a full synthetic SAE 75W-85 manual transmission fluid.

APPLICATION

Castrol SMX-S can be recommended for most manual transmissions where API GL1-4 lubricants are required. It has been used successfully as a problem solver in the manual transmissions of a number of manufacturers.

FEATURES/BENEFITS

Excellent synchroniser performance giving extended synchroniser life and shift comfort
Exceptional cold flow properties giving smoother gear shift at low temperatures
High shear stability giving a constant viscosity during oil life and noise reduction
Excellent thermal and oxidative stability for transmission cleanliness and longer oil life
Excellent temperature reduction through reduced friction
Good seal compatibility helping to avoid oil leakages and repair costs
Free from chlorine and heavy metals giving better environmental compatibility

PERFORMANCE

SAE 75W-85
API GL1-4

TYPICAL PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Density at 15ºC 0.871

Viscosity at 40ºC, mm²/s 67

Viscosity at 100ºC, mm²/s 11.5

VI 164

Pour Point ºC -60

Flash Point ºC 228

Syntrax
Automotive Part Synthetic Gear Oil
DESCRIPTION

Castrol Syntrax Universal 75W/90 is a part synthetic multigrade gear oil which employs advanced technology additives to ensure extra protection at extreme low and high operating temperatures. Tested and proven, this SAE 75W/90 multigrade gear oil is synchromesh compatible and designed with a low chlorine formulation to allow environmentally responsible disposal of used oil.

APPLICATION

It meets the need for a 'universal' gear oil which can be used in automotive manual gearboxes, transaxles, transfer boxes and final drives where stringent performance specifications including API GL3, GL4 or GL5 must be met.

It is suitable for all units requiring a gear oil of SAE 75W, 80W or 90; including multigrade formulations within this range, e.g. 75W/90, 80W/90 and 85W/90 and can replace the following conventional Castrol gear oils:

Castrol EP 80 Castrol EPX 80W/90
Castrol EP 90

PERFORMANCE

API GL3, 4, 5
TYPICAL CHARACTERISTICS

SAE Viscosity Rating 75W-90

Relative Density @ 20º C 0.890

Viscosity @ 40º C, cSt 84.8

Viscosity @ 100º C, cSt 15.2

Viscosity Index 189

Flash Point (closed) º C 133

Pour Point º C -45

Significant points are that the older Syntrax is rated up to GL5 (suitable for diff), the SMX-S is rated up to GL4 (not suitable for diff which calls for GL5).

[Ian Linden]

Oops, don't know how I missed that. Well done, Murray.

I'll amend my post above.

[Ian Linden]

Resurrecting this thread again, to let everyone know that the current Castrol product for your gearbox is Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90 Fully Synthetic MTF (Replaces SMX S 75w-85).

See http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-739-castrol-syntrans-multivehicle-75w-90-fully-synthetic-mtf-replaces-smx-s-75w-85.aspx

For the differential, I think Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75W-90 is the one to go for:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-737-castrol-syntrax-longlife-75w-90-formerly-saf-xo-75w-90.aspx

[David Brennan]

A third revival of this thread, I thought this would be a good place to account for my 2nd gear problem.

I've only bought my Capp this month, and the previous owner has put up with a 2nd gear blockout problem since he bought the car at just 2 years old in 1997.

My research before buying the car suggests that this box, in line with this thread had experienced plenty of 1-2 change grinds over it's initial 2 years of life. At present, the 1-2 shift is ok if not a little stiff but the 3-2 change is blocked out unless you either rattle the stick back and forth a few times, or double clutch.

Initially i assumed i'd just have to replace the synchro on 2nd but then thinking more about it, i figured it's probably had the collar and 2nd gear dog teeth flattened off from bad 1-2 shifts, causing the collar teeth to stick on top of the synchro teeth, rarher than pass by.
That would have quickly destroyed the synchro and resulted in my current problem.

I'm looking for a good 2nd hand box in Australia now, failing that i will order:
-2nd gear
-collar and hub assy
-synchro
-related springs
-seals etc

And I will pull down the box, post here with what i find and how the rebuild is to DIY, what the results are etc